Cool Time to Plant

Many Texans find they have lost trees and shrubs to the cold winter and then the
excessive rainfall. Heaven knows Texas usually can use rain, but it would be
nice if it can at a rate that was helpful not damaging. Many trees were damaged
from drought of the past few years then exposed to a cold winter only to have
their root systems rotted or the soil washed away by the rains. It is important to
check the health of trees that are still standing, but look a little week. Prune any
dead branches that are just causing the tree to hold dead weight and others that
put undue weight on the trunk and base. This improves the ability to withstand
high winds and ice storms.

Was the growth of new branches and leaves normal this spring and summer? If
the tree seemed stunted, check branches that did not have new growth by cutting
a portion and see if it is green inside or the appropriate color and smells alive. It
could just be struggling. If the tree is large and would cause damage to your
house, cars, pets or family if it fell, Have a tree expert look at it and tell you if it
can be saved.

Shrubs show more obvious signs of damage or disease. If they are dead in
some areas but had new growth this spring and summer they may recover if this
winter is not too harsh. Cut the shrubs dead portions off. When the weather is
remaining low 80’s or mostly 70’s cut back the rest as recommended for that
shrub.

Once you have determined what plants should be removed and replaced or just
want a new plant in new areas, begin to search the requirements of different
plants. What space is available for the plant? Access the sunlight in the area.
Think about what it is like year round. Is there sufficient water runoff or too much
for the plants you have in mind. There are remedies for runoff. What type of soil
do you have? This is a possible source to determine your soil type
http://www.nrcs.usda.gov or your local nursery.

Once you make your educated selection of trees or shrubs you desire to plant
follow the instructions below unless instructed differently by the person you are
buying from. Even then, make sure they have the knowledge and the information
you have.

Dig a hole so that the root system has at least six inches of clearance on all
sides. The root ball should rest on a solid soil foundation, so do not dig the hole
much deeper than the ball. Plant the tree or shrub just above the level of the
surrounding soil, to allow for settling and increased soil drainage.

Handle the tree or shrub by the root ball, not by the trunk after removing it from
the container. A broken ball of earth can mean a dead plant. Carefully place in
the hole and backfill the hole, using only the native soil removed from the hole.
Do not use soil amendments when planting large shrubs and trees. Fill the hole,
and firm the soil around the plant. To settle the soil around the roots and
eliminate any air pockets, water thoroughly after planting.

Wait to fertilize your tree or shrub after planting until early in the spring, and even
then, go lightly. Strong applications of fertilizer may burn and injure the root
system, and could possibly kill the plant.

Appropriate watering is critical in transplanting. At the time of transplanting, soak
the root ball and surrounding soil. A thorough watering every 7 to 10 days
dramatically increases the success ratio. Watering more often may encourage
root rot. More trees and shrubs fail from over watering than under watering. Add
4 to 6 inches of mulch mixed with 5% Diatomaceous Earth Crawling Insect
Control around the base of the newly planted trees or shrubs to conserve soil
moisture, deter ants or other bugs and keep down weeds.

by Patricia Byrne